Jungle trekking in search of the Lost City

One of the absolutely best mountain trails in South America, is the trek to the Lost City (Ciudad Perdida or Teyuna), located in the Sierra Nevadas de Santa Marta Northeast in Colombia. The trail is about 64 km long (back and forth), with a total of 2,700 meters of elevation gain and loss. The trail starts from 120 meters above sea level, and it’s highest point is at 1,200 meters above sea level.

The Lost City was established in 800 AD by the indigenous people called Tayronas. This is 650 years earlier than Macchu Pichu was established. The city was lost to the outside world for 400 years until it was rediscovered by treasure hunters in the 1970s.

Scoundrels rummaged the city opening tombs and stealing gold for a few years, before the government got involved and it was restored again. The descendants from the Tayronas, the Kogis, still live in the city. The Kogi people believe that everything buried in the Lost City contributes to the peace, harmony, and balance of the world.

The Kogi people gather in the city every year for one month (September), and perform sacrificial rituals. The trail closes for the full month, and we were lucky to be on the first tour after the celebrations. This meant there were fewer people on the trail, we only started meeting other groups on our way out.

The tour starts from Santa Marta, a coastal town we flew to after our visit to Bogotá and it’s surrounding areas. We rented an Airbnb and spent four days exploring the city and training for the trek ahead.

Colorful Santa Marta tourist office
The tourist office also has a decent coffee shop

We are used to hiking quite a bit, especially when we are at our mountain lodge in Norway. But, after one year sailing, we have not really had a great deal of preparation for a four day trek with 6-7 hours of walking daily… so, we naturally were a bit excited about how that would turn out.

Day 1, we had transportation with our tour guide, Expo Tour, from Santa Marta to the starting point of the trek.

Our guides, Jose and Tatiana, explaining the route
Our third guide, Mario, with our travel companion, the puppy we named “Happy”. She mysteriously vanished at the camp at the end of day two, though…
Just about started on day 1 – we still look clean 😊
Beautiful and lush landscapes
We had nice breaks all spread throughout the trail, with fresh fruit 🍉
It rains a lot in this region, and you could easily see the results on the trail
Mules are used to transport goods

Day 2 is for most considered the hardest day, as we had to climb an incredibly steep hill for almost two solid hours, just after midday. It was heavy to walk in due to mud, and it was sweltering hot.

Happy hiker #1
Happy hiker #2
Kogi village
We learned lots about the Kogi culture and how they live in pact with nature
Our camp on day 2
Our group playing cards.
The sleeping quarters. When it is high season, you might end up sleeping in hammocks, so we were lucky to get beds.
Our bunk beds at the end of the room. The captain hunted them swiftly as we arrived in the camps.

Day 3 is the day we arrived at the Lost City. The approach to the city entails 1,200 steps on an original staircase made by the Tayronas. We spent almost three hours there, just taking in the serene atmosphere.

Getting closer!
Crossing rivers meant sometimes just one person on the bridge at a time
1,200 stairs leading up to the city
Pretty steep!
The Lost City is divided into four sections. The first section we reached was the commercial section, where all trade was performed.
The structures overall were really impressive. The city is located on a narrow ridge, hence the massive walls needed to build each section.
The Lost City is built in layers. This is the highest area, where the religious ceremonies take place.
The view from the highest point of the city.
There are a few Kogis who still live in the city.
The Chief’s family still lives there, represented here by one of his his daughters and granddaughters.

We felt truly honored to be allowed to visit this sacred place, and it was definitely a check on the bucket list.

Day 4 was a transport day, mostly. You walk back the same way, so we knew where to go. Therefore, we decided to start a little before the group, and do shorter breaks that day.

Real jungle trekking with a lush scenery all the way 🍃

We wanted to experience the feeling of being alone in the jungle, and our old muscles needed to stay in motion as not too get totally stiff during the often somewhat long breaks.

Considering we were trekking with 15 others, all, except one, under the age of 35, it felt like a wise choice. The track ends with an hour steep downhill on a dirt road which has concrete on the steepest slopes. Not a great ending for sore knees, but we made it!

Yay! The first group back to the start of the trail!
Last few steps 🥰
Thank you for a great trip, Colibris!

We treated us to a beautiful apartment in the same building as the Marriot hotel the night we got back into town. So proud that we finished in style, and that we were in better shape than we thought. But also, oh so happy to get a hot shower, clean our clothes, and have a three course steak dinner, and no plans of hiking over the next few days…

A well deserved beer 🍻