The anchorage in Rikitea is well protected by a reef, that has a marked channel where we entered in good daylight. There were about ten other sailboats there when we arrived in early December, which grew to 16 by Christmas.
Rikitea village and the anchorage early in December 2024Noxoma located at the far right
We took a stroll through town, which has a quaint main street close to the water. Its inhabitants are so welcoming, and everybody greeted us, even the ones driving cars and mopeds. There is a laid back, no rush kind of vibe here, and we enjoyed exploring this city mainly by foot.
The main street.The infamous Rikitea pack guided us through town.The Mayor’s office.The local medical center.Dinghy dock by the Rikitea Post Office south in townThe Rikitea Post Office
Before we arrive to a new place, we try to do some online research, and especially helpful is No Foreign Land (NFL), which is a website and an app developed by cruisers for cruisers. It let’s everyone share information about things to do onshore, good anchoring locations, snorkeling and dive spots, etc.
We quickly discovered that Rikitea had a lot more to offer than what we thought after our preliminary research, as there was very little information on NFL as well as online. So, we had lots of fun discovering that there in fact were a couple of snack bars, some local pearl jewelry stores, as well as several grocery stores that were better stocked than many places we have been this past year – especially in the Tuamotus.
There is not really a tradition to use vegetables as part of the local cuisine here, so we were pleasantly surprised when we discovered that several of the grocery store owners are selling vegetables and fruits grown in their own gardens in their stores.
These lovely ladies have inherited a grocery shop from their father, which they run from their houseMagasin Leille assortmentThis store, Chez Tin Tin, sells locally grown vegetables, and after two weeks we finally understood their opening hours – from 6-9 in the morning.Locally grown limes– and eggplants.
We are lucky that lychees are in season in December, and bought some directly from a private home. They tasted sooo delicious!
It’s not easy to reach the lychees, as all of the lowest ones were already picked.Lychees are in season in DecemberSo juicy and tasteful!The lychees cost 1,000 XPF (Polynesian Francs) per kilo = 100 Norwegian Kroner / 10 USD
We have also enjoyed several meals from the local snack bars. Most of them are take away only, so we have been creative in dining out in public.
Kea Kimi Snacking with take away onlyGood reuse of a container – this is where the kitchen is – with the counter in front.Home made menus on display.This “snack” (meaning a kind of cafe/restaurant), Snack Teava, is open week days from 05.30-13.00.We were lucky to find them open a day after a long hike, and got a table organized on their patioCold beer after a hike – lovely!The only meal they served was probably the most unhealthy baguette we have ever tried. Chicken, BBQ sauce and French fries…Snack Jojo, another cafe which serves lunch in town.Take-away pizza from Pizza Aro. Most of the pizzas are served with a fried egg in the center. We’re wondering whether it is a French or a Polynesian thing?Pizza date on the town pier, with a couple of beers we picked up from the grocery storeWe found a suitable place to sit and wait while our pizzas were being prepared
After spending a few weeks here, we discovered that the shelves in the stores were slowly being emptied, and Christmas was approaching. These islands are dependent on two supply ships, that normally arrive up to twice per month. Unfortunately, the last ship before Christmas got ten days delayed and did not arrive in time for Christmas. Hopefully it spread joy with some surprise gifts arriving just a tad late for the main celebration.
One of the two supply ships, Taporo 8, serving Gambier.Getting your shipment involves a lot of waiting…The name of the recipient is called out by the ship’s crew as they open the containers, and you better be present when they call your name, otherwise your package will be returned to Tahiti.The dock is busy all day, with people arriving from al over the archipelagoWe received our two packages that a personal shopper had arranged for us with some extra food from Tahiti.
There are quite a few historical buildings and monuments in Rikitea, especially from the very active missionary period in the 17th and 18th centuries. Many of them are now in ruins, except the churches, which are mostly well maintained. The French introduced Catholicism to these islands, and the town has a huge cathedral with room for 1,000 people, as well as two chapels.
Saint Michel CathedralA small chapel, Saint Anne Chapel, in the town center.Parts of the last King’s palacePart of the former King Maputeoa’s palaceA chapel, Saint Pierre Chapel, with a cemetery sitting on a hill in town. The chapel houses the tomb of King Maputeo – the last king of Gambier.
Saint Pierre ChapelThe tomb of Gambier’s last king
The cemetery is still in operation by the chapel with the king’s tombThe chapel which used to house the old tomb of the king – now closed.An outdoor alter next to the old chapel.Nature seems to have taken repossession of the old chapel.The Rouru Convent, which used to house up to 60 nuns and 150 women and children.
Nature is taking back these buildings, which lost their roofs a long time ago.Lush surroundings around the convent.
This was just some of the things we have discovered about Rikitea, the main town in Gambier, which is located on the largest island, Mangareva. This island is well known for its great hiking trails, as well as several small villages along the coastline and a decent road where we can ride our bikes. We have already started exploring some, but are still looking to discover lots. More to come in separate posts on this – stay tuned!
View from the Rikitea anchorage towards the two highest peaks in Mangareva, Mount Duff to the left and Mount Mokoto in the middle.
