Together with SV Sauvage, we sailed clockwise around Nuku Hiva, and started out sailing the 20nm to Anaho Bay, on the Northeast side of the island.
On our way there, the captain, being an eager fisherman, threw out our fishing lines yet again. We caught our third and largest wahoo so far, this time a total of 17 kgs! Our freezers are now full, so we will have to wait a while before we fish again.
Anaho Bay is the most sheltered bay at the North side of Nuku Hiva. The bay is shaped like a dogleg, which makes it quiet and less swelly than most of the other bays here.
Together with Tom and Karmen from SV Sauvage and our new Belgian friends, Yegor and Marlene from SV Sabali, we went for a hike onshore to the neighboring bay.
On the way there, we passed a local farm, run by Roger, a native to Anaho. Roger turned out to be super friendly, and shared his story with us. He inherited the land from his grandmother, and has built out the farm ever since.
Roger supplies the island with lots of fruits and vegetables, and is the only one who grows cucumbers locally. Lucky for us, he sold some, and each of us were eager to buy .
Roger’s farm is beautifully located close to the neighboring bay, Ha’atuatua Bay. After we had tasted his pamplemousse, shared stories about each other’s lives and purchased some of his produce, we made our way to the beautiful bay, before we made our return to the village.
We couldn’t resist shopping some more fresh produce from a local couple who sold some fruits and veggies outside their home. We found our favorite veggie, pumpkin, as it lasts forever on the boat.
Roger also has a house in Anaho Bay which he invited us to the following day. We brought banana bread, and Roger offered lemonade (citronnade, as it is called here). It was lovely to spend some more time with Roger, learn about life here, and just hang around in his beautiful and lush garden. Even with his own farm very close by, he still grows some trees and plants to get local produce at his house as well.
The locals here in Nuku Hiva are so friendly and open towards visitors, and we are touched by their hospitality. As these small communities literally get invaded by sailors nearly half of the year, it seems they have found a way to balance making a living off sailors, while still keeping the local authentic flare on their lives.
This is what we missed in the Caribbean. We truly feel so fortunate to be experiencing this and sharing these unique experiences with the locals as well as with fellow sailors.
We still have planned stops in two more bays on Nuku Hiva before returning to the main town of Taiohae. We can’t wait to explore more!